Cutting back shrubs and grasses

The following generally applies to grasses: cut back deciduous grasses either in autumn or in spring, evergreens such as great wood-rush (Luzula sylvatica), on the other hand, should be thinned out in spring and dead leaves removed.

Cutting back is recommended in particular in harsh, windy locations and those with expected heavy snowfall. However, this is especially the case for Giant Chinese Silver Grass (Miscanthus x giganteus), as its leaves separate from the stems in good time and may contaminate the bed and its surroundings. Autumn pruning is not appropriate for pampas grass (Cortaderia selloana) (especially the pink flowering variety) and other frost-sensitive grasses. These are best tied together in autumn. Surround it with brushwood or a straw mat as frost protection and cut it back only before it buds in spring.

In milder regions with less snow, spring pruning of grasses is more useful, as the hoarfrost in autumn and a light covering of snow in winter make the grasses in the bed seem all the more attractive – especially where they are accentuated with effect lighting.

Pruning of shrubs is carried out in a similar way. Cut back spring shrubs such as Bleeding Heart (Dicentra) as soon as the leaves have turned yellow – the shrub retracts in good time for the summer. Remove the faded inflorescences from blossomed summer shrubs, such as larkspur (Delphinium) at an early stage. Larkspur in particular blossoms again in September. Do not cut back evergreen shrubs, such as wild ginger (Asarum), but thin them out, for example in the case of Bergenia and Christmas rose (Helleborus). This is also the case for garden ferns: cut the summer-green plants back in autumn and thin out the evergreen ones in spring.

Tip: In near-natural gardens, you can leave seed stems of shrubs where they are during the winter months so that insects can spend the winter in them and in hollow shrub stalks. Especially in spring, garden birds often seek out these stalk remnants for their prey.

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10 Golden Rules for Watering

To prevent your plants hanging their heads in summer, they need plenty of water. But how much, how often, water from above or below? Here you find some smart and helpful facts for watering your plants.

Rule no. 1: Keep evenly moist

Most plants depend on even moisture. However, slight drying out before watering promotes root growth of the plants.

Rule no. 2: Water more seldom but then thoroughly

In the flower bed, one to two watering sessions per week are usually sufficient: better to water more seldom but with plenty of water rather than a little water often.

Rule no. 3: Water late in the evening or early in the morning

When you water cooled soil in the evening or night then less water evaporates than as on hot soil during the day. And the plants can sufficiently supply themselves with water before the next day’s heat.

Rule no. 4: Keep leaves dry

Wet leaves become diseased leaves. Kept wet overnight, leaf-mould diseases may result. Leaves that are made wet in the sun develop slight burn marks (burning glass effect of the water droplets).

Rule no. 5: Give the right water quantity

Requirement-suited watering means that the water must sufficiently reach the roots. Too-low water quantities often only cover the upper soil centimetres – or don’t even reach them at all, e.g. when there is a mulch covering of the soil and too little irrigation. Requirement-suited watering also means that crop plants are particularly dependent upon evenly moist soil in the time until their crops are ripe for harvesting (examples: the forming of roots and corms [carrots, potatoes], leaves [basil, field salad], heads [cauliflower, lettuce], husks [beans] or fruit [tomatoes, fruit]).

Rule no. 6: Give larger water quantities in parts

Water needs a moment to seep into the soil. Before precious water in the bed flows away unused, it’s better to water repeatedly in parts.

Rule no. 7: Water with a target but distribute

Always watering at only one root point leads to one-sided root growth and thereby to poorer nutrient absorption in the soil. Therefore, always water around the plant and distribute in the entire irrigation area.

Rule no. 8: Irrigate in a way that saves water

Water as much as necessary and as little as possible. This is simplified with an automatic irrigation system with moisture sensor – in the bed, on the balcony and on the lawn.

Rule no. 9: Avoid waterlogging

Waterlogging suppresses the breathing air of the roots out of the soil – the root cells drown without oxygen.

Rule no. 10: Use quality, clay-rich soil

Plant soil rich in clay minerals has better expanding properties and can therefore hold soil in the water better and in a more even way. In wet summers and in winter, ensure water drainage to prevent waterlogging.

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How to cut and multiply sage

Sage, with the Latin name Salvia, belongs to the family of labiates plants. It is an undemanding and sun-loving plant. The species Salvia can be found worldwide and includes more than 800 different types. Real Sage with its’ aromatic fragrance and essential oils is on the one hand used as a kitchen herb, on the other hand as a medical plant. If sage is planted in the right place in the garden, it can spread over several square meters.

Early spring is a good time to cut back sage. If the leaves are cut before winter, the plant might have difficulty to get through the winter time. Now, in February, the shoots can be cut back to about 5 cm. After pruning, when the weather improves, the sage will get new sprouts and grow bushier. However, if new shoots have already formed when you plan to cut back your sage, no pruning should be done any more.

After the sage has grown new shoots and leaves in spring, you can use the fresh sage leaves for a sage tea, for example, or to flavour meals.

If you want more of the perfumy sage in your garden, a multiplication via cuttings is best. This is quite easy. The best time for the multiplication of sage is from July to the late summer. The plant should not bloom. Otherwise, you should remove the flowers and buds.

First, use a sharp knife to cut off a young shoot approximately 6 centimeters below the leaf crown. Then strip off the lower leaves so that the cutting is left with at least three pairs of leaves. Now plant the cutting into compost soil and water it carefully. Make sure that the soil is always moist. Since the cutting will grow even better when humidity is high, you can use half a plastic bottle as a greenhouse and place it over the pot with the cutting carefully. Should the bottle get steamed up, simply turn off the lid. When the cutting has built roots and grown stronger, it can be planted from the pot directly into the bed outside.

You can also put a cutting, right after having cut it off the sage plant, into a glass of water. After about 2 weeks the cutting should have developed sufficient roots so that it can be planted directly into the soil.

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Harvest time for pumpkins

In the case of winter pumpkins, the harvest time depends on the variety. However, it can generally be stated that the pumpkin harvest begins between the end of August and the end of October. With a few little tricks you can quickly find out when your pumpkin can be harvested.

When the growth phase of the pumpkins is over, the stalks become dry and woody. If the stalk is very woody, the pumpkin can be harvested without hesitation. Another characteristic by which you can tell the ripeness of the pumpkin is the rich colour which the pumpkin has when fully ripe. And another sign of the ripeness of the winter pumpkin is a hollow sound when you tap it. However, as soon as a first frost comes over the delicious vegetable, the fruit should no longer be harvested. Therefore do not harvest too late!

During the harvest itself, ensure that the pumpkins are not damaged. If pumpkins are squashed or otherwise damaged, a rotting process may begin – and enjoyment of the home-grown pumpkin will therefore not last long. After harvesting, you should wash your pumpkins thoroughly so that no bacteria and fungi multiply in the soil residue. Then the pumpkin is stored in a dry place. Those who observe all these tips can look forward to a successful pumpkin harvest.

Still no idea what to do with your pumpkins? No problem, here comes a delicious recipe for you to cook:

Pumpkin vegetables:
1 courgette
½ leek
1 bell pepper
½ pumpkin
Vegetable stock
Optional feta cheese

Wash and finely chop the vegetables. Then place everything in a large pot or pan and sauté. Repeatedly douse with vegetable stock. Allow the stock to increasingly soak in to form a smooth sauce. Optionally dice feta cheese and mix in to taste. This makes the pumpkin dish a little tangier. Rice or potatoes are suitable side dishes.

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